You’re 28, working a salaried job, contributing to your 401(k) at work, and wondering whether to also open an IRA — and which kind. A friend told you Roth is better. Your coworker says traditional. Your tax software prompted you last April and you closed the window.
Here’s the clear answer, the simple decision rule, and the numbers that matter.
What an IRA Is
An IRA — individual retirement account — is a retirement savings account you open yourself, directly with a brokerage firm, independent of any employer. You fund it with money from your bank account, choose your own investments, and watch it grow with significant tax advantages.
IRAs exist separately from your 401(k). If your employer offers a 401(k), you can still open and contribute to an IRA — they have separate contribution limits and separate tax treatment. Think of them as complementary retirement tools, not competing ones.
The two main types are the Traditional IRATraditional IRAA retirement account where contributions may be tax-deductible, with withdrawals in retirement taxed as ordinary income.Full definition → and the Roth IRARoth IRAA retirement account where contributions are after-tax, allowing tax-free growth and tax-free withdrawals in retirement.Full definition →. Both hold the same kinds of investments (stocks, bonds, index funds, ETFs). The difference is entirely about taxes — specifically, when you pay them.
Traditional IRA: Pay Taxes Later
With a Traditional IRA, you may contribute pre-tax dollars — meaning you might be able to deduct your contribution from your taxable income this year, reducing your tax bill now. Your money then grows tax-deferred: you pay no taxes on dividends, capital gains, or investment growth while the money stays in the account.
When you withdraw money in retirement (after age 59½), you pay ordinary income taxes on the full amount you withdraw — both your original contributions and all the growth.
Tax-deferred means the tax bill is postponed, not eliminated. You’ll eventually pay taxes on this money; you just pay them later, in retirement, presumably at whatever tax rate applies to you then.
The upfront deduction is the main advantage. If you’re in the 24% tax bracket and contribute $7,000 to a Traditional IRA, you could reduce your taxable income by $7,000, saving $1,680 in taxes this year. That’s real money now.
Note: the deductibility of Traditional IRA contributions phases out at certain income levels if you also have a workplace retirement plan like a 401(k). Check IRS rules (they change annually) or consult a tax professional if you’re unsure whether your contributions are deductible.
Roth IRA: Pay Taxes Now, Never Again
With a Roth IRA, you contribute after-tax dollars — you don’t get a deduction this year. Your money grows tax-free: no taxes on dividends, capital gains, or growth while it’s in the account. And when you withdraw money in retirement, the entire amount — contributions and decades of growth — comes out tax-free.
That last part is the key. If you invest $7,000 in a Roth IRA at 25 and it grows to $80,000 by age 65, you owe zero taxes on that $73,000 of gains when you withdraw it.
Tax-free growth means the government gets its cut now (on the money you earned and already paid taxes on) and then leaves your retirement account alone forever.
The Roth has another notable advantage: you can withdraw your original contributions (not earnings) at any time, without taxes or penalties. This makes it a useful last-resort financial backstop. If a genuine emergency exhausted everything else, your Roth contributions are accessible. This is not a reason to use your Roth as a savings account — but it’s reassuring to know it’s there.
Income Limits for the Roth IRA
Not everyone can contribute directly to a Roth IRA. For 2025, eligibility phases out for single filers between $150,000 and $165,000 of modified adjusted gross income (MAGI), and for married filing jointly between $236,000 and $246,000. These thresholds adjust slightly each year.
If you’re above the limits, a backdoor Roth IRA — contributing to a Traditional IRA and converting it to Roth — is a legal workaround worth discussing with a tax professional.
The Simple Decision Rule: Which Bracket Will You Be In?
The core question for choosing between Roth and Traditional is: will you be in a higher or lower tax bracket in retirement than you are today?
- Roth wins if you expect to be in a higher bracket later. Pay taxes now at a lower rate; take the money out tax-free later at what would have been a higher rate.
- Traditional wins if you expect to be in a lower bracket later. Get the deduction now at a higher rate; pay taxes later at a lower rate.
In practice, many people don’t know exactly what their tax bracket will be in retirement. But there’s a strong argument for Roth among younger workers for two reasons:
First, you’re likely in a lower tax bracket earlier in your career than you’ll be at your peak earnings. Paying taxes now at 22% is a better deal than paying taxes later at 32%.
Second, tax rates in general are historically low by long-run standards, and there’s no guarantee they’ll stay that way. Paying taxes now and locking in tax-free withdrawals protects against the possibility of higher future rates.
This is why many financial planners default to recommending Roth for people early in their careers, all else being equal.
2025 Contribution Limits and Deadlines
For 2025, you can contribute:
- $7,000 if you’re under age 50
- $8,000 if you’re age 50 or older (the extra $1,000 is called a “catch-up contribution”)
These limits are shared across all your IRAs — if you have both a Roth and Traditional IRA, your total contributions to both combined cannot exceed $7,000.
One uniquely useful rule: you can contribute to an IRA for the prior tax year until April 15 of the following year. That means you can contribute to your 2025 IRA as late as April 15, 2026. If you realize in March that you had money available to contribute last year, you still can.
Where to Open an IRA
The major brokerages — Fidelity, Vanguard, and Charles Schwab — all offer IRAs with no account minimums and low-cost index fund options. Opening an account takes about 15 minutes online; you’ll need your Social Security number and a bank account to link. For most people starting out, a simple S&P 500 index fund or a target-date fund is the right investment to hold inside it.
From here, read about how a 401(k) and an IRA work together — they’re complementary, not competing — and what index funds are and why they belong in both accounts. The start investing path walks through the full sequence if you prefer a step-by-step guide.